Although many of my posts are about my current abode here in Mexico, I did in fact spend a whole year in Buenos Aires, living in the ever so famous San Telmo. Although at the beginning I wasn’t so sure, I grew to absolutely love BA and am dying to go back. So it’s time to share more love for Argentina.
I have mentioned in another post about Buenos Aires, it really is a great city with so much to do that it seems endless. In hindsight, I should have kept a journal of all the things I did and places I visited – it would make writing this so much easier – instead now I just have to go off my much less efficient memory. But we’ll see how it goes, surely I can conjure up some good information for you.
Anyway, back to the point. While living in Buenos Aires I walked almost everywhere. If it was too far I would take the colectivo or the subte but much of my time was spend wandering the streets. It was during these wanderings that I discovered many incredible things to eat, do and see in and around San Telmo. Actually this goes for the rest of Buenos Aires but if I got into it all we would be looking at a very long post.
let’s start with the most obvious; The Sunday Market. Running the length of Calle Defensa starting a couple of block from Parque Lezama almost reaching Plaza de Mayo this market has it all. Taking a stroll through the crowds on a sunny day may be a little bit of a challenge considering its popularity but the variety of what you will see – clothes, souvenirs, art, handicrafts, antiques… along with the beat of tango wafting through the air will not leave you disappointed. I lived on Defensa and I must have walked that market hundreds of times (not literally) and never was let down.
Another rather obvious place to visit is Plaza Dorrego. Chockablock during the weekend it is a great place to sit back and relax at the outdoor tables and enjoy an afternoon or evening. Whats more, it’s surrounded by great cafes, bars, restaurants, shops and art galleries meaning that it is always a good choice.
Parque Lezama at the southern end of the Calle Defensa is a large park usually very popular with families and young people alike and a great place to relax on a sunny day, something I did very often since the park was right on my front doorstep. Whats more it’s right across the road from San Telmo’s very own Russian Orthodox church. There are so many things to see on the streets of San Telmo and simply wandering the cobblestoned streets taking in the view is a fantastic way of spending an afternoon.
EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY
San Telmo, in fact the whole of Buenos Aires should never have to worry about being short of cafés, restaurants and bars as there just seem to be too many to count and are all worth a visit. Of course I have my favourites and San Telmo just happens to many of them. A section of San Telmo that I absolutely love is on the street Chile, a very neat little street lined with cafés, ice cream shops and restaurants; La Poesía – a café once frequented by artists and writers alike on the corner of Bolívar and Chile, Vía Vía – a café/hostel on Chile, Moliere – also on Chile a restaurant by day, dinner show in the evening and later on turning into a nightclub and my personal favourite, Medio y Medio, also nestled in among the other cafés and restaurants on Chile and has a great atmosphere.
There are countless great places around here it’s almost hard to choose where to go. If you do happen to get sick of Argentine food you can opt for Peruvian at Chifa ManSan on Perú – funnily enough – number 832, Aqui Me Quedo also on Chile with Mexican food on the menu or try out some Arabic dishes at Habibi on Humberto Primo between Bolívar and Perú.
I know I probably sound like a guide book at the moment but these are just some of the places I have enjoyed during my wanderings and let’s be honest, who doesn’t like to share the love when they find somewhere worth loving? Anyway, I promise I’m almost finished. As wonderful as Buenos Aires is, we can all get a little overwhelmed at times so if you want to swap your dancing shoes for a cold beer, Gibraltar is your best bet, especially considering that it’s the only English pub in the whole of the city.
That said there are probably many more wonderful places worth checking out around San Telmo but we don’t want to start a novel here, plus San Telmo makes for a perfect spot for exploring so it wouldn’t be fair if I left nothing else to find so let’s just call this a starting point.